Five times stronger than steel, spider silk's unique qualities were recognized by the Ancient Greeks—and more recently, scientists have looked at applications from medicine to engineering. Now, a Japanese startup, Spiber, has begun to change the textile industry with this remarkable material.
The company started by making a substitute in the lab that is similar to spider silk in structure. After studying thousands of different spider species and other silk-producing life forms, Spiber successfully produced an alternative to spider silk. This breakthrough was achieved by fermenting (发酵) a mixture of water, sugar, and nutrients with special microbes to produce protein polymers (聚合物). These polymers are then made into fibers, paving the way for a range of innovative fabrics.
However, shifting from lab to practical application presented challenges. In 2015, Spiber partnered with The North Face Japan to produce a limited-edition run of 50 "Moon Parka" jackets to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the moon landings. But during the design process, the team discovered that spider silk became smaller when exposed to water, and had to transform the protein to make the fiber suitable for an outdoor jacket, which took them four years to perfect.
Currently, the company uses sugarcane and corn for its fermentation process—crops that use large volumes of land and change food resources. To reduce its environmental impact, Spiber is developing a process called "biosphere circulation" that will transform deserted clothes made from natural materials like cotton into the sugars needed for fermentation.
With approximately 100 billion yen ($783 million) in funding, Spiber plans to significantly speed up its production of protein polymers by the end of 2025. "Mass production will help bring the price of fibers down and allow Spiber to expand beyond the high-end designer market and thus we have the means to create solutions to enable more circular fashion," says Higashi, head of business development at Spiber. "It's our mission to bring those solutions to the world."